[Podcast] Secondhand versus upcycled: Which is the "greener choice" in the sustainable fashion context?

Keywords: Circular fashion; Secondhand clothing; Upcycled clothing; Perceived value; Perceived risk; Individualism; Greenwashing Concern; Product attitude; Purchase Intention

In the face of increasingly severe environmental and climate change challenges, the circular economy model has become an inevitable direction for the global fashion industry. This model not only helps reduce waste and pollution but also opens up opportunities for long-term sustainable development in the sector. Against this backdrop, a student research group from the University of Economics Ho Chi Minh City conducted the study “Secondhand versus upcycled: Which is the "greener choice" in the sustainable fashion context?” to analyze the impact of perceived value and perceived risk on purchase intention toward circular fashion in Vietnam, focusing on two types of products: secondhand clothing and creatively upcycled clothing.

The fashion industry is known as one of the world’s leading polluters, with about 92 million tons of fashion waste dumped into the environment each year—a figure projected to increase to 134 million tons by the end of this decade. The widespread use of synthetic materials like polyester, along with massive water consumption and CO₂ emissions, exacerbates the pressure on the global ecosystem. In this context, sustainable consumption has become an inevitable trend, with eco-friendly options such as secondhand and upcycled clothing receiving increasing attention.

While the secondhand clothing market is booming among younger generations like Gen Z, upcycled clothing—known for its uniqueness and high level of personalization—is also gradually establishing itself as a promising sustainable fashion choice. However, in Vietnam, the popularity of these two trends remains limited, revealing great potential for the development of the circular fashion market, especially as consumer awareness of fast fashion’s negative impacts continues to rise.

Factors influencing sustainable fashion

*Old but valuable: A fashion line that retains value when well-preserved
Secondhand fashion refers to previously owned fashion items sold through thrift stores, flea markets, or online platforms. These products—ranging from clothes and shoes to accessories—can retain their usability if well-maintained. Secondhand fashion is increasingly trendy for its affordability and, more importantly, for the sustainability benefits it offers by reducing waste and the environmental impact commonly associated with traditional fashion production.

*Eco-friendly with personality: A fashion line that protects the environment and attracts those who embrace uniqueness
Upcycled fashion (creatively recycled fashion) consists of items made from old or discarded materials reworked into new products with higher or more artistic value. Upcycling not only reduces waste but also creates unique, aesthetically rich products. In fashion, this creative process results in original items that appeal to consumers who value individuality and want to contribute to environmental protection. Upcycled fashion is increasingly embraced within sustainability-focused communities.

*A blend of intrinsic benefits, personal values, and extrinsic advantages
Perceived value is a key concept in consumer behavior research, especially in sustainable fashion. It refers to a consumer’s overall assessment of a product or service’s usefulness, based on a trade-off between what they receive and what they give up. This includes intrinsic benefits like personal satisfaction and alignment with personal values, as well as extrinsic benefits like quality, price, and brand reputation. In the context of circular fashion, perceived value not only reflects product quality and functionality but also includes emotional and environmental value. As consumers become more aware of the social and environmental impact of their choices, perceived value plays a vital role in shaping positive attitudes and purchase intentions for circular fashion products such as secondhand or upcycled clothing. Understanding perceived value enables businesses and policymakers to craft suitable marketing strategies, thereby promoting sustainable consumption and advancing the circular economy in fashion.

*A significant factor affecting consumer attitude and purchase intention toward circular fashion
Perceived risk refers to the uncertainty consumers face when they cannot accurately predict the consequences of a purchase decision. In circular fashion, perceived risk may include financial risk, functional risk, aesthetic risk, and hygiene risk. Financial risk involves concerns over paying for a product that may not be worth it or may incur additional repair or replacement costs. Functional risk refers to the product not meeting expectations for performance or durability. Aesthetic risk relates to worries that the item may not suit personal style or fashion trends. Hygiene risk concerns the cleanliness and potential health issues of using previously owned items. These risks significantly influence consumer attitudes and purchase intentions regarding circular fashion. Thus, reducing perceived risk—by improving product quality, ensuring hygiene, and enhancing customer experience—is crucial for encouraging sustainable fashion consumption.

*“Greenwashing” severely undermines green consumer behavior
Greenwashing involves companies making false or exaggerated claims about the environmental friendliness of their products or services without taking genuine sustainable actions. According to research by Sun and Shi (2022), greenwashing perception has a strong negative impact on consumers’ intention to purchase green products. When consumers feel misled by inaccurate claims, they tend to lose trust in the brand, form negative attitudes toward the product, and refuse to purchase—even if the product claims to be sustainable. This negative effect is especially pronounced in individuals with high environmental responsibility, as they feel betrayed in their values. In sustainable fashion, greenwashing not only hampers the growth of green consumer behavior but also tarnishes the industry's public image. Therefore, transparency, genuine sustainability commitments, and effective communication are essential strategies to build trust, maintain sustainable purchasing behavior, and develop the circular fashion market.

Key findings on consumer behavior toward circular fashion

The research revealed several key insights into consumer behavior regarding circular fashion products.

First, comparative analysis results show that emotional value positively influences product attitudes for both secondhand and upcycled fashion. However, only environmental value positively affects product attitudes in the case of secondhand fashion. The upcycled fashion market in Vietnam remains relatively new and underdeveloped, while the production of upcycled products still consumes energy and natural resources, and raw materials may not always meet eco-friendly standards. Therefore, environmental value does not directly drive attitudes toward upcycled fashion but may do so indirectly through the moderating role of individualism. In contrast, secondhand fashion—based on reselling lightly used items without requiring new resource extraction or manufacturing—helps reduce emissions and environmental pressure, explaining why environmental value significantly affects attitudes toward secondhand products.

In terms of risk, the study found that hygiene risk negatively affects product attitudes toward secondhand fashion. Upcycled fashion, which involves a more thorough refurbishing and redesigning process, often includes strict sanitation steps, so consumers are less likely to associate it with hygiene concerns. Conversely, secondhand fashion is commonly distributed through thrift stores or online markets, where hygiene and product quality standards vary, causing concerns that negatively impact consumer attitudes.

Regarding the relationship between product attitude and purchase intention, both secondhand and upcycled fashion showed similar results. Specifically, product attitude positively influences electronic word-of-mouth (eWOM) intention and purchase intention, and eWOM intention also positively affects purchase intention. These findings align with previous research, confirming that personal attitudes toward a product influence information processing, decision-making, and actual behavior.

Additionally, the study examined the moderating role of individualism in the relationship between perceived value and product attitude. Results show that individualism moderates this relationship for both secondhand and upcycled fashion. However, in the upcycled fashion context, individualism reduces the positive impact of environmental value on product attitude. This can be explained by the nature of individualism, which emphasizes autonomy, uniqueness, and self-expression. Since upcycled products are already highly creative and personalized, individualistic consumers may prioritize emotional expression and self-identity over environmental benefits, reducing the influence of environmental value.

Lastly, the study analyzed concern over greenwashing as a moderating variable in the relationship between product attitude and purchase intention. For upcycled fashion, greenwashing concern weakens the positive relationship between product attitude and purchase intention. Upcycled brands often emphasize sustainability and resource-saving messages, but if these claims are perceived as inaccurate, consumers may feel misled and concerned, leading to reduced purchase intention. Conversely, secondhand fashion, by nature a form of reuse and less aggressively marketed with green claims, makes consumers feel more reassured, resulting in the attitude–intention relationship being less affected by greenwashing concerns.

Policy implications

First, emotional value has been identified as a key factor influencing consumer attitudes toward secondhand and upcycled fashion. To enhance emotional value, retailers should create engaging shopping experiences—from product selection to usage. For secondhand fashion, emphasis should be placed on environmental protection and product reusability to raise consumer awareness of their positive impact. For upcycled fashion, although environmental factors are not the primary driver, educational strategies and collaborations with environmental organizations can shift perceptions and elevate the product’s environmental value.

In addition, hygiene concerns are a major consumer worry when buying secondhand fashion. Retailers must ensure items are cleaned, repaired, and sanitized before resale. This will alleviate concerns about quality and cleanliness. For upcycled fashion, highlighting product uniqueness, high quality, and personalization can attract especially Gen Z consumers. Furthermore, using multi-channel marketing and collaborating with influencers and KOLs will boost appeal and encourage purchases.

Convenience is also a vital factor to consider in policies promoting circular fashion. A lack of proper collection points or inconsistencies in post-purchase product handling can become significant consumer barriers. Therefore, businesses should invest in standardized collection and processing systems to ensure a clear and convenient process for consumers.

Finally, when circular fashion shopping behavior is framed as a social responsibility—meaning consumers perceive these choices as beneficial to both themselves and the wider community and environment—such behavior is more likely to be sustained. Thus, policies should encourage and foster a conscious consumer community while helping them clearly understand the positive impact they can make through choosing circular fashion.

By implementing these policies, retailers and producers can increase the purchase intention for secondhand and upcycled fashion, promote sustainable consumption behavior, and contribute to the development of a circular economy in Vietnam.

This study indirectly contributes to SDG 11 – Sustainable Cities and Communities, SDG 12 – Responsible Consumption and Production, and SDG 13 – Climate Action.

See the full research article: The process of forming waste sorting behavior: how convenience of recycling affect residents’ behavior in Ho Chi Minh city HERE

Authors: Hua Thi Thanh Nhan, Hoang Bao Tram - University of Economics Ho Chi Minh city

This article is part of the series “Green Research Community” with the message “Research Contribution for UEH Living Lab Green Campus.” UEH warmly invites the community to stay tuned for upcoming editions of the Green Research Community Newsletter

*In order to maximize opportunities for developing the “UEH Green Research Community,” all members will be able to participate in scientific research methodology classes related to the Living Lab and Green Campus topics. In addition, when a product meets the required standards, the research group will receive a Certificate from the UEH Sustainable University Project Board and financial support for one qualifying research project.

More Information:

SDG 12 – Responsible Consumption and Production focuses on ensuring sustainable consumption and production patterns, thereby reducing pressure on natural resources, minimizing waste, and limiting environmental pollution. This goal highlights the importance of efficient waste management, optimal resource use, and behavioral change at both individual and community levels - particularly through education and awareness-raising efforts.

SDG 13 – Climate Action calls for urgent action to combat climate change and its negative impacts by reducing greenhouse gas emissions, enhancing resilience, and increasing community awareness. This goal involves not only national-level policies but also demands behavioral changes at the individual and community level in daily life - especially in areas directly related to waste generation and management.

News and Photos: UEH Green Campus Project, UEH Communications and Partnership Development Department